Axiom Home Page Forums General Discussion The Water Cooler CV's Subterranean Adventure

Thanks for the details, Dean. I'll have to get one at some point. It sounds like it adds to the experience quite nicely. What exactly goes into the calibration of it? You mentioned that people turn it up too high, but how do you know the proper level?

I'm glad it comes with its own amplifier.

Good point on the extra LFE output. I'll make sure my next preamp or receiver has at least one extra output.

I thought the Buttkicker enhanced the Mines of Moria scene very nicely. Like Dean said, I believe proper set-up is the key. Set too high and the Buttkicker simply becomes too noticeable. They way Dean had it run was subtle, but effective.

Here's Axiom's response to the subwoofer-behind-the-screen configuration option:

I really liked the idea of movable partition walls to section off the kitchen area and make the theater area of the basement rectangular, but after spending some time actually looking at the layout, there's no way to make that rectangle happen. I still may want a way to section off that area as well as the opening to the stairwell, but I don't know how much it would really improve acoustics. Hmmm....

While it probably won’t change the acoustics much going with a “curtain wall” like I have does a great job creating the illusion of a rectangular room and in turn blocking out all visual distractions so ones focus is primarily on the screen.

So even if you can’t swing a partition wall a curtain wall may help.

Good point. That option is still on the table. I will certainly give Dazian a look when I get to that point.

I'm just going to ramble for a little bit.

My dad has decided to make taking out the walls the next step. We're putting in a new beam, replacing the wood beam which protrudes lower into the room than the rest of the ceiling, and which requires several support posts. The new beam will be a metal I-beam which won't hang lower (or so much lower so as to interfere with the suspended ceiling, anyway) than the floor joists, and it will span a much greater distance without needing a support post, pretty much making the theater area wide open for seating options. The support post that will remain will be out into the room slightly, but I'm glad we get to remove the other two posts which would be more annoying.

He decided to remove all of the walls to tile the floor across the entire basement the same so if he wants to remove or change the position of the walls in the future, there won't be disparities in the floor to deal with. As for the wall I want to go back up, it will allow for slightly more room in the theater/living area and cut into the bedroom a little more, since I really only use my bedroom for sleeping and would rather have more wiggle room for speaker placement options. The final dimensions of the room will be roughly 28'x18'x6.5'. I'm still not a fan of how low the ceiling will be. It won't scrape my own head or that of any of my friends, but I imagine it won't be so great for acoustics. I'll do what I can with some of the ceiling tiles. I'm still pretty dumb about room treatments. It's something I'll be asking for advice on, I'm sure.

Anyway, that's the latest news on that. I'm open to any brainstorms any of you may have.

There are various treatment options which are designed to be installed in T-bar drop ceilings. If you get some designed to diffuse sound, they won't deaden the room (like absorbers will), but the at the same time the ceiling won't act as a reflection point.

Also, if you're installing left and right walls, sacrifice a little width in the back, to make the room taper, like a parallelogram when viewed from above. This will go a long way to preventing standing waves. Oh, duh, I didn't think of the perfect example, like Axiom's speaker cabinets. Also the false walls will make it easy to fish wire for the speakers in the rear of the room.

Stiff walls are a key to allowing the room to be pressurized, and accentuating bass notes. When constructing walls, build the stud frame, place glue (like Liquid Nails) on the studs before screwing the drywall to it. After that sets, screw a second layer of drywall over the first with another layer of glue in between. Offset the seams of the drywall panels so the gaps in the first layer are in the middle of the sheets of the second. Finish the second layer with the usual mud (don't worry about finishing the first).

It would be nice if you could construct the ceiling in the same manner, but as long as the floor above the drop ceiling is solid you should still be able to compress the room's airspace--you'll have the subs to do it.

Oh, forgot about the doors for the room. Find solid core doors (wood, fire doors will usually be good). Have someone run a router around all four edges (stopping just before the latch and hinge mount points) so there is a 1/4" grove in the middle of all edges. Make sure it'll be installed into a frame with four sides (not open on the bottom, but with the little bump). Into the routed grove, glue industrial grade felt. This way the door will provide a bit of a seal when closed, and also be ridged on it's own.

>>Stiff walls are a key to allowing the room to be pressurized, and accentuating bass notes.

This is another of those "totally obvious after someone says it, but not obvious at all until then" things. Thanks !