Axiom Home Page Forums General Discussion Home Theater Storm damage to HT room?

I just noticed this. It's 8 to 11 foot, not 8 foot, 11 inches.

Oups, sorry !

I was just browsing the gallery and this one is the same layout as the room I'm working on with the door (almost) and the pole (exactly) in the same place, and the same size room. Only I plan to put up a wall where the pole is.

Edit: This room does look to be longer, though.

Other than that I didn't see any rooms that are doing the same thing that I'm doing.

I hired a roofer to replace my roof today from the hail damage. A guy from Australia. I don't pay until the jobs done, and the insurance covers all except my $500 deductible. He's supposed to do it the end of next week.

Couldn't find a local guy, eh?

Yeah. It costs extra to ship one over from down under....

I picked him, because he's already done some jobs in my hood, and I'm pretty sure he'll do a good job.

And I liked the picture of the boomerang on his brochure.

I visited the local home theater store today and here's what I discovered. The rule of thumb of viewing distance should be 1.5 times the screen width is true. They had a 2.40:1 screen in a darkened room with a movie playing. The screen was 9 feet wide. When I sat 9 feet back, it was impressive for, oh, maybe a minute or 2, then it started to bother me a little. Next I moved back to about 14 feet and it was much, much better on the eyes.

I don't think I'll be getting a 10 foot screen and sitting 10 foot back, like I had planed. The inverse of the 1:1.5 ratio is to multiply the viewing distance by .64, so 10 feet back would be a screen size of 6.4 feet. I'm thinking 7 feet would be ok. That should still give me enough screen to cover the 3 M80 in-cabinets, except I'll need to expose the front ports below the screen. This should look ok, I hope. It won't matter too much in the darkened room anyway, but if I have to, I could cover the ports with some black material.

They also had some black sconces that I thought would look really cool in a black room.

The screen company that they use for acoustically transparent screens is Stewart Filmscreen Corporation. 8 foot 2.35:1 runs $2000, which is their smallest, but I can special order a 7 foot from them. They microperf the screen material.

I've discovered this Dricore product over the weekend. It looks like it's been out for a while. I'm considering laying this over my concrete floor before reinstalling the perimeter and divider walls.

www.dricore.com

I've been told by several flooring installers that it is not required unless you have a known moisture/dampness problem in the concrete it is going over. As far as the heat value, I bought a few panels and did a little experiment of the temp difference between the dricore wood and the temp of the bare concrete in my basement and the temps were exactly the same. The only difference was the wood would heat up under my foot and feel warm after a few minutes while the concrete was always cold. I then placed the flooring product we are going to use on top of each and tried the test again the following morning and this time I felt no difference between the 2. This little test saved me about $1600.

Ok. Once I eliminate my leaking doorway, and plug up at least 1 crack, that I know of, I may not have a water problem. I've always had, at least a little, water leakage, then this storm. I'm surprised that it takes on the temperature of the concrete. That room has always been the coolest spot in the house. Good in the summer but not so good in the winter. This concrete floor is about 60 years old, if that makes a difference. The entire floor is 22 x 19 for 418 sq foot / 3.3 = 127 tiles. One disadvantage I can think of is these look like they would burn right up in a fire.