![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: VP150
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,863
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,863 |
Hawk, did you measure the resistors in the cross over? 3 components do not simultaneously fail like this. There is something else going on that made 3 speakers fail. I would tell you to check the resistors in the cross over network. Also, you can visually inspect the capacitors, look at the top and bottom of the capacitors, if any of them are bulging out a little bit, the capacitor has "blown". Again with the resistors, since you do not know what the "correct" reading is, look for a resistor that has shorted out, this is uncommon, when resistors fail they usually fail open. Also carefully inspect the cross over for any wiring "amiss". I would not spend money on replacement speakers until you determine what caused the 3 drivers to fail in the first place. On a side note, if your going to buy a new speaker... Forget the 150... get a 180, it is WAY worth every penny.. And yes, the 180 sounds wonderful with 8 year old axiom's, you will have to trust me on that one. ![smile smile](/boards/images/graemlins/default/smile.gif) keep us updated. Also, if you want to post some detailed photos of the cross over/capacitors i will look at it for you if you want... and try to help where i can...
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: VP150
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 18,044
shareholder in the making
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shareholder in the making
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Speaker impedance varies with frequency of the input, so I wouldn't count on them measuring 6 ohms (or the total being 6 ohms). Nevertheless, Dakkon's right about it possibly being the crossover that nuked the drivers.
I am the Doctor, and THIS... is my SPOON!
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: VP150
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Joined: Nov 2011
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Thinking aloud, if the crossover nuked the drivers, wouldn't it nuke all 5 drivers? Just curious why the two tweeters measured 6.0 and 5.5 ohms (assuming that means they are still good) but it seems that the 5.25's are measuring open circuit?
Visually looking at the two electrolytic cap's (one is a 1.5 microfarad, the other is a 6.8 microfarad), there is nothing that appears distored (no bulging apparent) and neither smell burnt. There is another cap (106J 100V is marked on the side and a websearch identifies it as a polystyrene film cap). Again, no sign of melting or distortion with that one.
There are two white rectangular ceramic resistors (marked 7WR49 and 7W5R)... I'm familiar with the color stripes but not these... Do the markings indicate that both are 7 watt and one is a 49 ohm resistor, the other is a 5 ohm resistor??
If I measure them while they are still in the circuit, should I expect them to measure 'true' to the rating? I did measure last night, they definitely did not measure open (it was late, I didn't write down my findings).
What about those two coil looking items, one hollow (air core?) and one with what I believe are iron plates running through the middle... again, neither show any evidence of melting or any physical damage. How do I test them?
I will try to post pics later today, headed out for a few hours.
Thanks for your help and patience with a noob, I don't work with electronics frequently so I'm a bit rusty on the nomenclature.
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: VP150
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,270
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Hi hawk,
Those coil-looking things are inductors. Have you tried a simple test like using an AA battery, and connecting the leads to the input posts on each driver? If the driver is working, the cone will make a "click" and move either inwards or outwards, depending on the polarity you used to connect them.
This will not damage the drivers. If there is no movement of the cone, then the drivers are gone or fused.
Last time I checked, the drivers are from $48 to $52, including shipping.
Alan
Alan Lofft, Axiom Resident Expert (Retired)
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: VP150
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Joined: Jan 2011
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"open circuit" means infinite resistance, like two wires not touching one another, where current does not pass. "short circuit" means very low resistance, like 0 Ohms, where current flows freely.
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: VP150
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,625
connoisseur
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I'm actually astounded there aren't any VP150v2s in the Auction Site! What color do you have?
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: VP150
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Joined: Nov 2011
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Got a brand new AA battery, checked it was good (1.61vdc).
Connected the bat to each driver in turn, no movement or click (inward or outward) of the cone on any of them. Definitely three dead 5.25" drivers... If the crossover is to blame I'm still puzzled why the 3 5.25" drivers died while the tweeters appear to be alive.
I had assumed was that all 3 of these just went out all at once. Now that I think on it, I had noticed that the center channel didn't seem up to par for quite a while. I attributed it to the horrible room (big open great room, high ceiling, balcony, no real 'front' or 'back' echo-chamber) this is set up in and my increasing age. Perhaps the drivers have been dying one at a time and I've just been to oblivious to notice it in the forebrain until the last one died? What I'm saying is that maybe the fault is time and wear as causing the failures, not any issue with the crossover?
Can anyone tell me what the difference is in a v2 or a v3 speakers as compared to one about 8-9 years old? What improvements have been made that trigger a v2 and v3 namechange?
Regarding the colors, my speakers are black finish with black grille.
Thanks again for the help guys.
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: VP150
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 10,654
shareholder in the making
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shareholder in the making
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Steve, you've now confirmed that the voice coils in all three drivers are burned out, which is rather unusual, unless as you suggest now, maybe they failed over a period of time, rather than simultaneously. What amplification have you been using?
It wouldn't seem that the crossover would have anything to do with this. Even a total failure of the crossover would just have sent treble frequencies to the drivers which they wouldn't reproduce well, but this couldn't cause them to fail.
Considering the amount which replacing all three drivers would run, consider instead using a vertical M2 as the center, which some of our members have done with great satisfaction.
-----------------------------------
Enjoy the music, not the equipment.
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: VP150
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,863
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the main difference from what i can tell is a better crossover...
i think John is wrong you should get a vp-180...
if the drivers failed over time then it is possible that nothing is wrong with the crossover.. i do not know what the life expectancy of the drivers are, much of my system is comprised of 8 year old speakers, and all is well...
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: VP150
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Joined: Nov 2011
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John,
My setup is pretty basic, I have a Harmon Kardon AVR 7200 driving the speakers. I do not have a separate amplifier. I use it primarily as a home theater sound system (optical input from the Panasonic DVD player... have yet to upgrade to Blue Ray). My wife uses it to play music from her iPod in addition to it's role as a home theater sound system.
In it's original configuration at my old house, I had it set up with two M22's as the right and left front speakers, the VP150 as the center channel, and the QS8's as the right and left rear speakers with the subwoofer a SVS PC12.
Due to the crappy room we are set up in at the new house, there's no place to put the two rear speakers, so I kept the front three plus subwoofer, hoping someday to set up a nice home theater in the basement with much more suitable acoustics than I currently have.
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