Axiom Home Page Forums General Discussion What's New At Axiom Sneak Peak: VP160 Prototype

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Concerning the VP160 in-cabinet model.

The VP160 is going to be a tight fit, but I think I can make it work without major renovation. From stud to stud, I have 30 1/4 inches. From backside of drywall to heat duct rising from furnace, I have about 13 inches. would probably need to frame the outside of wall with 2x2's to gain a couple inches clearance from heating duct. I don't think the area around the duct itself produces much heat, but I'd probably add some insulation to seperate the 2 just in case. Here's some pictures. of where it'd have to go. The VP150 is fairly centered, off by about 1 inch.

There is a floor just under this spot, so building a support under the speaker here presents no problem.

I might purchase one of these, but I'll probably wait until the last day before I place an order. (Marking my calander.) Do you think it'll really make that much of a difference with my 2 pairs of M22 mains and EP350? I can always send it back if I don't notice that big of a difference, I guess. Probably never see one at this $460 price again.

Hmm . . .you should have just a slight clearance to that pipe - tight fit, but a fit! You don't need to worry about the heat affecting the speaker - the heat from a heat duct isn't enough to do any damage to the speaker.

Thanks Amie. The reason I need to wait is I'm having a basement wall being braced from the outside on Jan 3rd. And some pest control for silverfish done on the 6th. That leaves me just a little over what I need for this speaker. If there are no additional expenses by Jan 5th, then I'll call in a pre-order for the in-cabinet version.

I was just wondering how to make a look-alike wood border for the in-cabinet version, like the on-wall speakers have, with the least amount of work and expense.

One idea I have is to use some 2 to 3 inch dowels, 45 degree angle corners. Then sand down the portion where it makes contact with the speaker and with the wall. Then stain a proper wood finish. Then mount the wood to the wall around the opening. Then mount the in-cabinet speaker to the wood (with a brace underneath the speaker from the backside).

Just wondering, when plugging in the numbers for a "custom" finish,in this case "high-gloss black piano", in the pre-order box, the total seems to be based on what would be the regular price and not calculated on the pre-order base price, is that correct?

The upcharge is based on the model (you'll see it's the same as the M60 in this case), but the upcharge is being calculated on the promo price, not the regular price.

JohnK,

The design goal for the VP160 was to be a seamless match for M60s. This would seem somewhat straightforward since all the drivers are the same, but because the driver configuration is not identical this means adjustments to the cross-over need to be made to compensate for off-axis variations. To do this we do not really change the cross-over points, but we do adjust the slopes.

Below is a graph showing a comparison of both the listening window response (an average of the curves in a narrow sphere around the forward axis) and the sound power (an average of on-axis and all off-axis measurements).

For the double blind listen testing we used a 3rd M60 to compare to the VP160 to ensure a proper blend across the front was achieved.

How well do you think the VP160 would blend with a VP150 for a over/under screen center channel set up? I love the over/under set up and would prefer to stick with it. I don't have room for a VP160 over my screen, so the VP150 would have to stay and work with a VP160 under the screen. Currently, the VP150 works quite well with 2 M22s - output level is within 1 DB.