![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: Lets plan a theater space
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,593 Likes: 1
connoisseur
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OP
connoisseur
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,593 Likes: 1 |
Thanks. Chipping away! ![smile smile](/boards/images/graemlins/default/smile.gif) The room is 14.5' wide x 22' long x 7.5' tall.
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: Lets plan a theater space
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,422
axiomite
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axiomite
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,422 |
Really similar in size to mine: 14' wide x 24' long x 7.8' tall. The extra half foot in width would have been a nice welcome to me vs. having more length, but I couldn't do that.
Farewell - June 4, 2020
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: Lets plan a theater space
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,593 Likes: 1
connoisseur
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OP
connoisseur
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,593 Likes: 1 |
I hear ya. I wanted 15' wide at smallest but it made more sense to bury the column in the wall. I planned the basement initially from a realtor report when I was back in Calgary. Even bought a sectional to put in there and had it delivered long distance through Sears. Glad it wouldn't fit down the stairs because it wouldnt have worked in the room either at 13' wide! ![grin grin](/boards/images/graemlins/default/grin.gif) Wont do that again.
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: Lets plan a theater space
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 1,172 Likes: 6
connoisseur
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connoisseur
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 1,172 Likes: 6 |
I have a few questions with regards to your install of the ceiling. I am looking to start getting mine done.
According to the resilient track manufacturer spec, they say to start the track 6" back from the wall, and for dual layer of drywall, to space it at 12" centres.
What sort of screw spacing did you use for your boards? Did you put in less screws into the second layer of drywall as it also has a layer of the green glue applied to it that will act at an adhesive, did you use less screws to attach that?
Also.. as you will be using a acoustic caulking to finish all the edges around the ceiling, did you put up the wall's first and then butt the ceiling drywall to the walls, or the other way around?
In your installation, I know that you are working from an unfinished basement I believe? Do you have any bulkheads that you needed to deal with HVAC ducting inside of? I am wondering if you added any additional soundproofing to those areas?
Thanks
Matt
Anthem: AVM60, Fosi DAC-Q5 Axiom: ADA1500, LFR1100 Actiive, QS8, EP500, M3, M3comp, M5
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: Lets plan a theater space
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,422
axiomite
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axiomite
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,422 |
Green Glue is actually NOT an adhesive. Them using the word "Glue" in the product name was a dumb idea to me. Not sure that I follow the 12" centers, oh wait, I meant centres? 6" is about as much overhang that you want the drywall to have from the channel. I used Whisper Clips and Hat Channel using this guideline: Whisper Clips and Hat Channel Are you planning on Resilient Channel? Most people shy away from that anymore as it isn't as good, consistent, or reliable as the clips and hat channel. The Sound Proofing Company (highly regarded people in the industry) don't like it either. Not just because they don't sell it, but because it doesn't perform as well and has too many variables over clips and hat channel. Is resilient channel OK for sound proofing? Personally though, if you use a quality product it should work. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-IfYuNnRLgUFor screws, I actually went a little lighter on the first layer (making careful note of where the clips/joists were as to not drive a screw through the channel and into a joist (defeating the purpose of the clips and channel). I ran one layer one direction, and then the second layer (with Green Glue in the middle) the other direction. This is more for a theoretically better "structural integrity" of the wall or ceiling, although running them all the same way, but offsetting one layer a foot or two from the other seems like a good option as well with minimal acoustical differences. I used the number of screws required by code for my area for the 2nd layer (thus the fewer number on the first layer) since you *need* the screws to go into the channel anyway. The 2nd layer screws were just longer to handle the 2 layers. It was recommended to me that the ceiling should be last. It should be allows to hang fairly independent from the walls. This made me nervous at first as the ceiling actually could move up and down a little. After the 2nd layer, things settled nicely. Sure, you are "coupling" the ceiling and side walls when you mud/tape the corners, but for some reason it was recommended to do it that way. Acoustical caulk should go up BETWEEN the 1st and 2nd layer of drywall. Someone told me that I could put it up AFTER the 2nd layer, and dang it was hard to get mud, primer, paint, ANYTHING to stick to the caulk. You just really want to seal up the 1st layer for anything that sneaks through the 2nd layer that you put up. I had a flat ceiling to work with. I did put in some flexible insulated ductwork for my two HVAC feeds into the room. WOW did that stop sound from coming in or out of the theater. I ran the flexible duct from the vents to about 2 feet outside of the room, and then put up some extra insulation in the ceiling cavity around the duct. Nothing special.
Last edited by nickbuol; 04/07/15 08:39 PM.
Farewell - June 4, 2020
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: Lets plan a theater space
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,593 Likes: 1
connoisseur
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OP
connoisseur
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,593 Likes: 1 |
Nick is spot on with how I did things pretty much. I did use resilient channel instead of clips and hat track, just because I could get it locally for $2 per 12' length. I used approx 70 lengths all said and done. I opted not to use green glue to save money. You must be careful during drywall install not to screw through the joists/studs. Clips and hat track make it harder to mess up. The site I am on right now has a resilient install going in and they did it like I did. Phew! I made a resilient layout height template for my sidewalls and chalk lines on the ceiling for screwing later. I marked wall studs on floor with a marker to avoid. Then marked ceiling joist on drywalled walls with pencil to chalkline and avoid. We put in just enough screws to hold the sheets up at first to speed progress while I had a helper, then I went back and assaulted the walls and ceiling with a screw every 8" max. 2 per stud space (on channel between studs.) I put the ceiling channel on 16" centers and put the perimeter runs about 2" off of the corners. The first ceiling layer had minimal screws and I calked seams between layers, focusing on the perimeter. Wear glasses, it drips. The second layer was screwed abundantly afterwards (securing both.) Ceiling and bulkheads get 2 layers and are done AFTER the walls are done with a channel setup. ![smile smile](/boards/images/graemlins/default/smile.gif) All cavities were packed lightly with insulation, and bulkheads were stuffed as well. Ducts should get insulation as well, supply and return vents should be supplied with insulated flex with 2 90 degree bends where possible. Avoiding HD for drywall material will cut your costs by 40% including taxes and delivery as I experienced. Contact a supplier and take advantage of indoor delivery. Well worth it. If you are going this route kudos to you! Welcome to the OCD club. ![laugh laugh](/boards/images/graemlins/default/laugh.gif) Congrats Matt!
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: Lets plan a theater space
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,593 Likes: 1
connoisseur
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OP
connoisseur
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,593 Likes: 1 |
Oh yeah. 5/8 drywall was something like 40cents more a sheet through a supplier over 1/2". Heavier to work with, but mass is a good thing for STC ratings.
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: Lets plan a theater space
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 1,172 Likes: 6
connoisseur
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connoisseur
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 1,172 Likes: 6 |
I will need to do more shopping I guess. The cost to buy from anywhere other than the big box stores here is horrific. for example:
Ultralight 1/2" 9.35 ~ 9.85 HD- $7.47 Firegrade 5/8" 15.80~19.30 HD- $14.57 (that is the only 5/8 that you can buy near me)
Yes. Homedepot charges a load to deliver, but I can rent one of their trucks for $25 and 2 cases of beer will get me all the help on the street to lug it all downstairs.. The drywall wholesalers don't even want to know about you unless you are ordering well over $600 worth of material. For a 16x17' room I needed $500 material with truck rental and beer inclusive.
Anthem: AVM60, Fosi DAC-Q5 Axiom: ADA1500, LFR1100 Actiive, QS8, EP500, M3, M3comp, M5
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: Lets plan a theater space
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,593 Likes: 1
connoisseur
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OP
connoisseur
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,593 Likes: 1 |
Nother weeks worth in the books. The remaining doors are hung, entire base,ent is primed and the horrifying floor mess has been scraped, scrubbed and wet vac'd. No longer tracking dust through the house. ![cool cool](/boards/images/graemlins/default/cool.gif) Did you ever get your dust situation cleaned up Fred? Nudge nudge for pics. ![wink wink](/boards/images/graemlins/default/wink.gif) Drywall and mud dust are notoriously bad for travelling everywhere. Should anyone encounter such a task, be sure to plug the vents in the area. Something kinda neat to share. I found an unlikely product that will serve as cladding for the french doors and as the poly diffuser material. It is 1/4" subfloor plywood. Wierd eh? The neat things about it are it comes in 4x4 handi panels, is cheap, and has a really cool quarter sawn grain on one side. Quarter sawn is when the wood grain falls all in the same direction looking like stripes. I picked one up just to see how it would take a cedar stain and I was quite impressed. The doors, diffusers, stage and shelving unit will be wrapped in this stuff, and it is much cheaper and easier to work with than furniture grade plywood. ![cool cool](/boards/images/graemlins/default/cool.gif) Continued...
Last edited by Serenity_Now; 04/12/15 10:59 PM.
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![](/boards/images/icons/default/book.gif) Re: Lets plan a theater space
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,593 Likes: 1
connoisseur
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OP
connoisseur
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,593 Likes: 1 |
We lucked out and scored an old exterior door from someone elses home reno to use on our furnace room. I dont know how old it is but it uses a skeleton key lock wich is kinda cool. So, after seeing it installed and the way the light shines from behind, I was struck with a silly idea. I mentioned it jokingly to my building pal and he said "were so doing that!".... The door will have decals made up with "LT. Frank Drebin" "Police Squad." My wife is a good sport and it should be hilarious and kitchy when done. Now, to track down a copy of naked gun 2 1/2 or 33 1/3, as the first one didnt have any detail shots of his office door. ![](http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag47/Hellcommute/image.jpg2_zps7y68k14r.jpg)
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