Axiom Home Page Forums General Discussion Hearing Things Blind Test and a review of the LFR-1100's

I am sooooo looking forward to comparing them against the analog version. Has any thought been given to user controls for tailoring the response?

Fearing a very large number... but about what price range will the fully active LFR's be costing? and will there be a very attractive price for those of us who already own an LFR to trade up?

If the shape of the speaker is not changing? then would it be possible to take the older LFR and convert it into an active model??

Hi Matt,

It would be a daunting task to bypass the internal crossovers to modify an existing LFR to active. Probably the best options would be either the Trade-Up program or sending them to the factory for us to do the bypass surgery.

The meaning of "fully active" in this context is just starting to work its way through my brain.

Is it fair to say you are talking about bi- or tri-amping, with woofer/mid/tweeters having different channels of amplification ?

The LFR active would actually be quin-amped. The DSP would have one input and five outputs per channel. The internal crossovers would be replaced by the DSP, giving us the ultimate control over everything in the design phase.

John, now you can't complain about not having anything to upgrade to.

So where is the DSP and where are the amps located? Is everything moved inside the LFR or are all the components still located externally?

Just wondering from a wiring side. Also as you will be going with 5 individual amps, if they are located integral to the speaker, what size do you run? I am not sure if this is a different product from the wireless speaker that you have listed for the LFR.

You can get the amps and DSP mounted in the cabinets or externally. I am sure wireless will be an option.

Geez, let me get the LFR1100's I have out of the boxes first.

I hate hooking up new speakers without a bit of A/B with the previous ones... has anyone hooked up just the fronts or should I leave the M5HP's hooked up to their amp and switch at preamp-to-amp level ?

Asking because it would be a more interesting comparison if I could separate the sound of the "M100" front half from the DSP/omni effect.

I don't think hooking up just the front drivers will mimic an M100.

I think you ought to try a few different orientations:

- experiment with toe in
- rotate them 180 degrees
- swap the DSP connections so the front is back and back is front. Sort of like, hey there's our friend Mr. McCraig - he's got a leg for an arm and an arm for a leg.